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Sur la Pont D’Avignon

30 Friday May 2025

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avignon, europe, france, provence, travel

We arrived in Avignon after our day in Arles and were treated to a riverside view of the old city. Avignon is best known for the Pope’s palace and the celebrated St. Benezet bridge over the Rhone river. The old city is a UNESCO heritage site in large part due to the architecture. The main city wall is intact and has served the city well. The 4.5 km long, intact city walls were originally built for defensive purposes but now are more used to keep the city from being flooded than being invaded by enemies. The bridge has only 4 of its original 22 arches left and was originally a toll bridge

Pope Clement V decided to move the papal capital to Avignon due to political pressures in Rome. The popes lived in Avignon between 1309 and 1377 and all the popes were French during this period. This area remained under papal control until the French Revolution in 1791 when it became part of France. We had been to Avignon on our last tour of France, so Dale and I chose to skip the local tour and explore the Pont du Gard.

The Pont du Gard is a remnant of a Roman aqueduct that brought water from a spring near Uzes to Nimes. (I apologize for not using any accent marks as I haven’t any idea how to switch keyboards on my iPad). It took the Romans 15 years to build the whole 50km aqueduct of which 5 years was dedicated to building the 49 metre tall portion we explored. A modern road was added to the Roman structure in the 1750’s to facilitate crossing the Gard river. The construction of the whole structure was incredible. 90% of the aqueduct was underground. There was only a 12% slope from the start of the aqueduct to Nimes. We went up the hill to see where the water would have left the tunnel and flowed over the bridge. It was entirely covered by stone to ensure that the water retained its purity and didn’t evaporate. It was active for over 600 years. It was a public holiday during our visit here and the park was full of locals hiking and swimming in the river.

We returned in time for a quick lunch on our boat before taking off for an afternoon visit to Chateauneuf du Pape. This village is dedicated to wine production. While there are 2000 people who live in the town, there are 324 wineries. The Popes created a summer home in this community and started the vineyard to support their wine consumption. We visited the Bouachon vintner for a wine tasting and learned a lot about the manufacturing of one of our favourite wines. Chateauneuf du Pape wines are unique in that the grapes used to produce the wine are grown in fields lined with river rocks left over from the glaciers. It only rains approximately 60 days per year in this region and the rocks allow the water to sink into the ground and not evaporate easily. The rocks also absorb heat during the day and release it at night which maintains the temperature for the grapes and as a result the alcohol content of the wine is higher than other wines. The roots of these vines grow very deep (20-25m deep) to manage with the drought conditions. While there are 13 varietals of grapes that can be used to produce the name brand wines, typically the main three are used – Grenache, Syrah and Movedre. These grapes thrive in hot, windy conditions. All of the Chateauneuf du Pape grapes need to be harvested by hand which differs from the harvesting process for most Côtes du Rhône grapes.

After our tasting, we were chauffeured to the remains of the actual summer home of the popes. It was perched high on a hill and we experienced the full impact of the Mistral winds. The view was impressive and we could see Avignon 12 km in the distance. The palace was destroyed over time as it was too expensive to maintain by the popes and it was used as a quarry for other projects. The donjon was left intact until German soldiers tried to blow it up in WWII. They were successful in destroying half of the building and that is what we can see now.

It was a full day today and we crashed after a delightful dinner. Our day tomorrow is a calm morning of travelling on the river and an afternoon of exploring Vivier.

A lovely day in and around Arles

29 Thursday May 2025

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art, france, painting, travel, van-gogh

After a good night’s sleep, interrupted only by a subconscious need to check the score in the Oiler’s game at 3:30am, it was time to start exploring. Our lovely travel gurus Cathy & David arranged a private tour for us which included the weekly market at St. Remy and the Carrieres des Lumieres in Le Baux-en-Provence. The market was phenomenal. It happens every Wednesday with local producers and farmers bringing in amazing produce, meat, charcuterie, flowers, honey, bread, olive wood products, clothing and linens.

We left the market and headed to a nearby rock quarry for the Carrière des Luminations production. The quarry opened in 1800 and produced limestone products until 1935 when the demand for limestone tanked as new building materials were developed. In 1959 artists started taking an interest in the acoustic value of the old quarry. They initially presented opera in the quarry, but have expanded to consistently have a permanent sound and light show on the go since. The show we saw was based on paintings such as this one by Rousseau. The show is designed to immerse you in the painting by animating a number of different paintings and showing them to music on several surfaces (I.e., walls, floors and ceilings) in the abandoned quarry. It was overwhelming at first and then we got into the artistry of it all.

In modern times Arles is known for its hosting of a variety of artists who painted there, most notably is Vincent Van Gogh who lived here while addressing his serious mental health concerns from 1888-1889. He painted more than 300 paintings in that community.

We took the opportunity to stroll through the streets of Arles and were struck by the wonderful flowers growing in abundance. The smell of Jasmine was striking and lovely.

We finally found the Arles Ampitheatre in our wandering. You would think something this large would be easier to find. It was built in 90 AD and was the focus of the Roman occupation until the 5th century. With the fall of Rome, it then became a part of the fortifications of Arles and people started to build houses in it. In 1825 the movement began to change it into a national monument. The houses were expropriated and it was turned back into a performance arena that now hosts bull fights and concerts.

We had a relaxing evening on the ship. Supper is a wonderful time to socialize and eat amazing food. The wine, as one might expect, is delicious. More on that as we go. Tonight the ship moved to our next port – Avignon!

Reorienting to the Rhone River

27 Tuesday May 2025

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europe, france, italy, Trains, travel

We left Marseille by train to arrive in Arles. Denise and I walked from our hotel to the train station while Ken, Anne and Dale shuttled our luggage. Marsaille is a tough place, with lots of graffiti. We were therefore surprised to walk by a beautiful carousel in the middle of a commercial area. The walk was fairly flat until we reached the stairs to the train. There were lots of stairs and we were grateful we didn’t need to haul our suitcases up them. We explored the train station until we were able to board our train. The main focus of the souvenir shops was the olive oil soap, available in as many scents as you might imagine. We boarded our train almost 20 minutes late only to find we had no engine and no electricity on board. This meant some confusion about where to sit because the seat numbers were electronic. When the engine finally arrived and powered things up, we moved to our assigned seats, which meant of course moving all our luggage to the opposite side of the car. The scenario for our journey shifted from villages to ocean views and we arrived in Arles after 45 minutes. It took us a bit to figure out if we should get off the train because the station was so underwhelming. We noticed that there were signs saying Arles, but the train was so long that our car, the first after the engine, stopped quite a distance from the building and had what seemed to be a dirt trail leading back to the station building. We did finally get off and trudged into the building only to learn that there is a major retrofit planned. This made us feel better and we set off to find our boat. The five minute walk ended at the river and our ship was there to welcome us. Our group of twenty one were finally all in one place now that we were at the ship. After a welcome drink and light lunch, we let jet lag win and we had a nap for a few hours.

We participated in the orientation to boat safety and the crew and then had a delicious meal. Now it is time for relaxing and perhaps, if we find ourselves awake at 3am, we might watch the Oilers game. Tomorrow is a market day in Arles and we are going to explore it all morning. The afternoon will be spent touring the town, including the Roman amphitheatre shown here as the sun set on this day.

The Roman amphitheatre at night

Our French Adventure

26 Monday May 2025

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adventure, europe, france, marseille, travel

We travelled today from Edmonton to Marseille France via Amsterdam. It was a pleasant journey due to the lovely food on board the flights and the ability to lay flat for a good portion of the journey. I noted the massive wind farms in the ocean as we flew into Amsterdam. There were also solar panels on almost all the buildings as we flew into the airport. They take their alternative energy seriously here. Perhaps lessons for us back home.

We arrived in Marseille at rush hour and checked in to our beautiful hotel in the old port. We explored a bit before sitting down for a simple meal with our travelling companions. The old port is filled with restaurants and cafes. It was redeveloped in the the 2000’s as part of a larger economic development project and was declared a “European Capitol of Culture” in 2013.

Marseille is an ancient port city on the Mediterranean Sea near the mouth of the Rhone River. It is now the second most populous city in France after Paris. It’s also one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in Europe, dating back to at least 600 BC. The city has been settled, conquered and resettled by many groups of people over the centuries including Greeks, Gauls, Romans, Visigoths and Arabs. It became “French” in the 16th century. The French national anthem “Le Marseillaise, was first sung here during the French Revolution in 1792. The Germans destroyed a large part of Marseille during World War II and has been rebuilding ever since. 

In addition to being an active port, Marseille is known for its olive oil soap, conveniently, a sample was provided to us by our hotel. We were only here overnight before moving to Arles where we are embarking on our Rhone River cruise. Dale and I were awake early and decided to go for a pre-breakfast stroll around the old port. It is a lovely day. 

Pre Christmas in Cuba

24 Tuesday Dec 2024

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We arrived on Saturday in time to get oriented to our resort, have dinner and relax. The internet has been sketchy in part due to the lingering impact of the storms earlier this month. Sunday was a lazy day at the beach. There is a lovely dining spot on the beach. Monday we took a tour of Havana.

Havana

The 2 hour drive to the city was worth it. Old Havana is picturesque and has fortifications dating back to 1550. Our guide gave us a short history of Cuba, explaining the eradication of the indigenous people, colonization by the Spanish, the impact of the slave trade and American oppression. He also explained the dual economy of Pesos and “hard currencies” typically USD are preferred.

The Cuban people are resilient and generally well educated. University and health care are free here. However due to the American embargo, they struggle to get all the supplies they need to care for people.

Street art
Havana Cathedral

We encountered many classic cars that have been restored and maintained since the 1950’s.

Classic Cars in Havana are now usually cabs

Our last stop in the old city was a drink in one of Hemmingway’s haunts, a rooftop patio in the Ambis Mundos hotel.

The ride home left us sleepy and hungry. A quick supper led to an early night. Tonight is Christmas Eve so we prepped with spa treatments, lunch at the beach and a swim in the ocean. There is a banquet tonight and the pigs, turkeys and crocodiles have been roasting on open coals all afternoon. It will be a fun evening.

Warmer weather

21 Saturday Dec 2024

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Following a busy fall, we did our annual trip from Edmonton to Montreal. As usual we enjoyed our time with Uncle Mark, Claude, Claire and Guy. We spent some time exploring the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts and the Salon des Metiers d’art.

Chess set by Salvador Daly

It was a fun four days. We then took the train to Toronto to prep for our flight to Cuba. It was definitely a week of planes, trains and automobiles.

The Monet exhibit

30 Monday Sep 2024

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CTV news recently did a story on the Monet exhibit we saw in London at the Courtauld Gallery. We saw the exhibit on the opening day. My Dad noticed the connection. The reporter did a good job with the story. https://winnipeg.ctvnews.ca/video/c3002550-ctv-national-news–thames-paintings-on-display . It is good to be home now after a long day of travel.

Adventure on the Thames

29 Sunday Sep 2024

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We got up early today to catch the Uber Boat to Greenwich. We have walked miles and miles through London and taken many tube rides. It was time for something different. The 45 minute float took us by all the famous sites along the Thames. This surprised us a bit which told us how disoriented we were about where we’ve been in London so far. We’ve been focusing our routes using google maps. As a result we never got a good sense of where we’ve been like we might have with an old school paper map.

Big Ben
The Tower of London
The Gherkin (London Egg)
The Tower Bridge

We got off at the Greenwich Pier and, after consulting with the information booth lady, started our uphill climb to the Royal Observatory. We realized it was the first hill we have actually seen in London. The observatory is in a large park that was rife with children and dogs. It was obviously a day for families to be out and about. The observatory was built in 1675 by Christopher Wren. John Flamstead was the first Royal Astronomer . He was instrumental in building the British/western world’s understanding time and space. He introduced the concept of meridians (aka, lines of longitude). As Britain was expanding its empire, the need for sailors to have a reliable sense of time became more important. A meridian (in case you have forgotten) occurs every 15 degrees around the globe (I.e., 360 degrees in a full rotation divided by 24 hours per day= 15) and represents one hour. George Airy, the 7th Astronomer Royal determined the prime meridian and because most ships were using navigation charts based on that line, it was declared the prime meridian by international convention in 1884. The prime meridian separates east and west in terms of time.

The Royal Observatory

Getting the math right took a lot of work. For millennia, sailors navigated by the stars. But as ships got larger and sea trade routes got longer, it became more important to know not only where you were in the sea, but when you might arrive at your destination. In 1714 British Parliament passed a law stating that whomever created the most precise and reliable clock for determining longitude while sailing would win the equivalent today of 2 million £. Only 51 years and 4 meticulously crafted prototypes, John Harrison eventually won the contest and got some, but not all, the prize money.

The winning time keeper

The Observatory displayed the development of keeping time until modern times. Apparently time is no longer based on Greenwich Mean Time (GMT), but by Coordinated Universal Time (UTC). However GMT still defines time zones. We finished our tour of the Observatory by taking this photo of the Prime Meridian. Only 2 Canadian cities made the engraving – Montreal and Ottawa.

Our next stop was Queen’s House. King James I commissioned Inigo Jones to design and build a palace for his wife, Queen Anne. It was finished in 1635. The grand hall and the tulip staircase are the most notable features in the building. We weren’t allowed into the grand hall but could look into it from a balcony as it was being set up for a wedding. We had to think about what type of budget you would need to have to shut down a national monument for your wedding. Apparently booking the venue starts at £250/guest ($452cdn) not including beverages.

The Grand Hall
The Tulip Stairs

After a delicious lunch on a patio (despite it being only 15C), we were off to our next stop, The Painted Hall in the Royal Naval Academy. What started out as a blandly decorated dining hall for veterans of the British Navy, turned into what the guide called the British Sistine Chapel – minus all the religion. The building housing the hall was one of the four on this site built by Christopher Wren. Apparently he built everything in London after the fire.

The Painted Hall

Finally, with feet that were complaining about overuse, we took the opportunity to view the Cutty Sark. In its day, this ship was the fastest ever on the seas. It was built for the tea trade and made a lot of people a lot of money. However, it was sold after the introduction of steam powered ships. It was shifted into service then to bring wool and other goods from Australia and other far away places. It was repurchased by British investors and was used to train sailors. It was eventually turned into the museum we explored today. We learned that Dale could never have been a sailor on this boat because, despite the ship itself being massive, the bunk beds were only 5’5” long and he had to duck in all the indoor spaces.

The Cutty Sark

We had to stand in line for 30 minutes to get our Uber Boat back to Battersea Power Plant. We appreciated the long ride back. We also got to see the tower bridge open for a tall ship to sail through. Supper was at a quaint Mexican restaurant. We are now officially done our sightseeing as we start transitioning home. We are leaving our AirB&B tomorrow morning and heading to a hotel near the airport. We need to be at the airport at 6am Monday morning to start the journey home.

The Tower Bridge
Battersea Power Plant

Another day focused on art

27 Friday Sep 2024

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We had 4 goals today, visit the Courtauld Art Gallery, eat lunch in one of the oldest pubs in England, visit the Philip Mould Gallery and buy treats at Fortnum & Mason.

We set out to walk to our first stop and found ourselves at Buckingham Palace just at the time of the changing of the guard. We hadn’t planned to take this in, but who doesn’t love a good parade? The weather was cold and rainy so the guards were wearing their cloaks, so it was a fairly unimpressive parade.

Changing of the Guard

We have been avid fans of a British show called Fake or Fortune for a couple of years. On this show, Philip Mould (a high end art dealer) and journalist Fiona Bruce (who also hosts the British Antiques Roadshow) try to figure out whether a specific work of art is either real (and worth a fortune) or fake. They often enlist the efforts of art conservationists from the Courtauld Institute to help them. We decided it would be fine to check out both Galleries. The public gallery at the Courtauld is open to the public free of charge. However, we bought tickets to a special exhibit of Monet’s paintings of London that opened today. Monet visited London several times and seemed to love painting the bridges of London enveloped in fog. He started hundreds of canvases but only finished 37. He did a successful exhibition of them in Paris which resulted in many being sold, distributing them world wide. This was the first time 21 of these paintings have been gathered together to be shown in London in 125 years. One of the paintings was actually loaned for the exhibit from our National Gallery in Ottawa.

Somerset House home of the Courtauld Gallery

The architecture of gallery space was beautiful too. The stairs to the different floors were amazing.

Stair case at the Courtauld Gallery
Waterloo Bridge, Grey Weather (Canadian National Gallery)

We got to Sommerset House, the home of the Courtauld Institute since 1989, in time to see the usual exhibits before it was time for the special exhibit. The art on display ranged from medieval art, to old world masters like Rubens and Van Dyke, to impressionists like Van Gogh, Manet and Modigliani. The institute was established in 1932 to study of art history.

A bar at Folies-Bergère by Manet
Self-portrait with bandaged ear by Van Gogh

After viewing amazing art, it was time for beer. Our next stop was Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese Pub, one of the oldest in London. A pub has been on the site since 1538 but the original was burnt in the 1666 Great Fire of London. The pub was “rebuilt” in 1667 and has functioned since. Lot’s of famous people have been associated with the pub, for example Oscar Wilde, Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, Charles Dickens and Voltaire.

We then walked a bit before stopping at another old pub for lunch. The Ye Old Cock Tavern has been in operation since 1549 but moved across the street in the 1880’s to make way for a Bank of England to be built. The food was good but a fire in the 1990’s wiped out some of its authentic historical appeal.

Fortified by fish, chips and beer, we headed to the Philip Mould Gallery. We were buzzed into this gallery and were invited to wander the 3 floors of paintings at our leisure. The art was all for sale and included artists we had heard of before (e.g., Van Dyke, Constable & Gainsborough) and people we are familiar with (e.g., Princess Dianna and King Charles). The prices of the paintings were often listed. One portrait was being sold for £250,000. Some were worth more but we didn’t have the nerve to ask about the ones that simply said, price available upon request. Nothing in that gallery fit our budget.

Our next stop was Fortum & Mason. I had seen a YouTube video about the store. It has been a fine food and luxury wares store for 317 years. They have been providing goods to the royal family since 1910, especially tea and food hampers for special occasions. the Weston family (the Superstore & Loblaw folks from Canada) currently own the store chain.

The entrance to Fortnum & Mason.
The store crowds

We found the store beautiful and crowded, so we didn’t stay long. It was an experience. We took a short tube ride to rest our weary feet and got off at the Pimlico station to see a different 15 minute walk to our suite. We had shifted from the highly affluent community around Fortum & Mason to a very quaint working class neighborhood. We happened upon a tiny but lovely yarn shop just 10 minutes before it closed, sadly, not enough time to truly browse.

We finished off our day with weary feet from walking 7.4 miles over cobblestones, pavement and concrete. We find walking in museums delightful but harder on our feet than when we are walking outside.

Tomorrow is our last full day of sightseeing before we start our homeward journey. We are off to Greenwich to see the sights.

Going to the theatre

25 Wednesday Sep 2024

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We had a lazy morning today, starting off with breakfast at The Local, a cafe beside our apartment. The food was excellent and Dale’s eggs benny were served in a unique way.

We walked to see Wicked at the Apollo Theatre near Victoria Station. We were impressed that they not only allowed us to bring our drinks to our seat, but they served us in cut glass glasses.

We sat in the cheap seats and still had an excellent view of the stage. Wicked was a great performance. We were somewhat disappointed with the sound quality as it was often hard to make out the words. However, that may also have been our being unfamiliar with the songs.

We then took a new train route and landed in Piccadilly Circus. This reminded us a lot of Times Square in New York.

Billboards in Piccadilly Circus

After a delicious Indian meal, we found our way to the Sondheim Theatre for Les Miserable. We just followed the signs.

The show was fantastic. We were fairly close to the stage and had great views. The performance was staggeringly brilliant and we left humming tunes. We figured out the same trains back to Victoria Station. I have been happily surprised by how safe it feels to walk in London, even later at night. We walked 15 minutes from Victoria Station to our suite at 11pm. There were lots of people around and people were pleasant and relaxed as we met them. What we weren’t expecting was to see a fox pop out from under a fence, look at us and run back in. Cool!

We have enjoyed walking here. I understand how impractical it would be to have a car if you lived in the areas we have been this week. We have also appreciated all the exercise. Today was the least distance we covered by foot and we still did 3.8 miles according to my watch.

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